Galaxy S8 Teardown – Complete Repair Video

The Galaxy S8, the newest infinity displayed
flagship from Samsung. But what happens when that display breaks? This thing already passed my durability test
with flying colors. Now it’s time to see what this thing is
made of, and what it looks like on the inside. Let’s get started. [Intro] There are no visible screws along the outside,
which is pretty normal for Samsung these days. It does make the phone slightly harder to
repair, but not impossible. The process I am demonstrating is going to
be pretty much the exact same for both the Galaxy S8 and the S8 Plus. But the replacement parts are going to be
different.

I’ll have those linked separately in the
description. I’ve warmed up the back of the phone with
my heat gun or hair dryer until it’s just barely too hot to touch. Then I can stick a thin metal pry tool between
the metal frame and the glass of the phone. Lift it up just high enough to slip a playing
card or business card inside, and that will help you get around that curve without breaking
anything.

If you need replacement backs, or if you break
yours during your repair, they are pretty inexpensive so don’t stress out too much. After slicing through both sides, I’ll slip
my green pry tool in to hold the glass up and keep it from resealing itself onto the
phone body. The rest of the adhesive will be easy to cut
away after that. Remember it’s important not to go too deep
inside of the phone because there is important stuff under there that can be punctured, like
the wireless charging or the battery. So stick around the edges. Once the back glass is free, we can see the
fingerprint scanner up along the top. It’s still attached to the real panel. The first interesting thing that we find is
all the warnings on the battery. You got normal stuff like don’t burn, don’t
puncture, avoid extreme temperatures. And then you get this no dogs allowed sign. Like, I’m not a dog person myself, but I
don’t advocate pet discrimination either.

Are cats and goldfish okay? I don’t really understand the rules anymore
and Samsung just kind of made it weird. There are 14 screws holding down the first
layer of guts. The circle-y thing is the wireless charging. We cut open one of these on the What’s Inside
YouTube channel. The copper wires coil up to receive power
through inductance, and then pass that power through the battery into these pins on the
motherboard. Pretty sweet technology. Apple will probably invent this technology
in the future for one of their next iPhones. So that’s something for iPhone users to
look forward to. The battery disconnects from the motherboard
easy enough, but there are no magical pull tabs underneath like we’ve seen on some
other phones, so it’s time to use brute force.

I’ll use the rounded end of my metal pry
tool, taking extreme care not to slice or puncture the battery. I also took special care not to use a dog
at any point during this procedure since that’s one of Samsung’s battery requirements. The battery does look pretty cool. It’s got a 3000 milliamp capacity, and it
even has a see-through area up at the top for the protection circuit that I talked about
during my Note 7 video. The clear plastic on the battery makes me
want a clear phone even more. It’s also cool that the inside of the phone
is the same color as the outside – just like what we saw with the red iPhone that
I took apart a few weeks ago. The loud speaker is the next piece to come
out. It’s got a little water damage indicator
down at the bottom. Remember, these phones are water resistant
and not water proof.

It still has those golden contact points where
it receives it’s power and signal from the phone. Before we can remove the charging port, we
have to take out the main board. I’ll start disconnecting the wire cables
at the bottom; there are three of those. Then the screen ribbon unsnaps like a little
Lego from the side of the motherboard. After that I’ll move up to the front sensor
array ribbon cable, and the front facing camera ribbon connector. And then, you know, there’s the SIM card
tray that I should have removed before we started. At the base of the motherboard there’s a
Lego connector for the charging port, but it’s on the underside of the board making
things a little more complicated than it should be. I’ll give you a better view of that in just
a second. Now that the motherboard is out, we have the
plastic Samsung heat pipe.

This helps keep the processor cool since copper
is a better conductor of heat than aluminum is. The thermal transfer away from the processor
is more efficient than with copper. Now the rear 12 megapixel camera has it’s
own Lego-like connection on the motherboard. I’ll snap that off and push the camera through
the board. This is definitely replaceable. Just for kicks and giggles I’ll pull out
the front facing camera as well. This little guy is attached to the iris scanner. If you look at the rear camera, you can see
it move around inside of the frame. This is called the OIS, or optical image stabilization. I’ll show you more of how this works in
just a second. On the front camera unit, the iris scanner
is solid and normally the front facing camera is solid as well, but this one has movement. Samsung didn’t advertise having stabilization
on this front camera, but it looks like they might have been playing around with the idea
of adding it.

OIS takes image quality to the next level
so it would be pretty awesome if they did. I’ll tuck that front facing camera back
into the frame and clip the rear camera back into place as well. Let’s take a look at that earpiece speaker. Remember, during my durability test I complained
that the grill size was way smaller on the new S8 than it was on the older S7.

It turns out that the internal speakers are
pretty much the same size. If anything, the S8 might even be a little
bit larger of a speaker, so no worries there. Since the speaker does sit a little lower
than the actual earpiece slot, this channel directs the sound out of the hole in the front. This sensor array at the front is all connected
with this ribbon cable. And the volume and Bixby buttons are all connected
with these golden contact pads.

The round vibrator has it’s own two contact
pads. And the power button is built the same way
– two little contact pads resting up against the motherboard. Now for the bottom of the phone. The headphone jack is very easily replaceable,
just one little screw to hold it in place. And it has the same little Lego style ribbon
connector connecting it to the charging port board. You can see the little rubber seal around
the headphone jack to help keep the water out. There are 5 more screws holding the charging
port board to the frame. And here is the charging port itself. Incredible nice that we don’t have the front
capacitive button reach around that we saw in the Galaxy S6- that was a nightmare. The charging port is pretty standard. It’s got the USBC port and the little microphone
off to the side.

This phone is actually pretty easy to work
on once you get inside that glued shut back glass. From the exterior you can see that there is
metal all around the edge of the phone, but now that we have the guts taken out and the
internals of the S8 exposed, we can see that it’s the same hunk of metal throughout the
entire device which fully explains the rigidity of the phone. Metal is pretty solid. There’s a little slot in the frame for the
screen ribbon to poke through. Speaking of the screen, replacing a cracked
display is not cheap or easy with a Samsung. For one, it’s glued into place. And two, the curved AMOLED panels are pretty
expensive. I’ll have the current pricing linked in
the video description for you. Since the screen is glued in, the old display
is essentially sacrificed in the removal process. Once it is heated up and removed, similar
to how we did the back panel, just feed the new screen ribbon through the metal frame
of the phone and plop it down into place.

I did this with the Galaxy S7 teardown if
you’re interested in seeing the exact process. Since this screen is not broken though, I’ll
leave it intact. And I’ll talk about a few ways to protect
your phone towards the end of the video. Assembling the phone is a piece of cake. Charging port gets tucked back into place
along with the headphone jack. This is a pretty great use of space, Samsung. There are 6 screws holding down all the components.

Then get those round wires tucked into the
grooves along the metal frame. Now the charging port is connected at the
base of the motherboard which is normal for Samsung, but strange to the rest of us. I’ll plug that in before setting the rest
of the motherboard into place making sure there are no ribbons or connections stuck
underneath the board as it goes down. I’ll clip in the front sensor array, and
then the iris scanner and front facing camera. There are those 3 signal wires down at the
bottom of the motherboard. The circular heads are pretty fragile so make
sure you are gentle as you press them into place. And finally the screen ribbon snaps into place
like a little Lego. The loud speaker is next. It’s easiest to snap the plastic into the
metal frame from the bottom edge first. And the last thing we plug in is the battery. This is for the phone’s own protection. Normally you’ll want to put adhesive under
the battery as well.

And you should definitely not turn your phone
on at this point, but I kind of want to show you something cool, so I’m going to do it
anyway. Remember the camera stabilization I talked
about earlier? Here it is in action. The camera is turned on right now and the
phone hardware is physically stabilizing the camera image to compensate for the shakiness
or the movement of my hands.

Huge thumbs up for that. It’s seriously one of the best features
you can have in a smart phone, and not every phone comes with this kind of hardware stabilizing. I think it’s pretty sweet. I check the front camera, but it doesn’t
look like there is any kind of movement or stabilizing in the lens. So while Samsung might have considered adding
OIS on that front camera, it’s definitely not enabled at the moment.

Now the phone is turned off again. I will set the wireless charging into place
and get all 14 screws screwed in. And finally I can clip in the fingerprint
scanner ribbon. This is a tedious process that reminds me
a lot of the iPhone 5s. I maybe could have popped the fingerprint
scanner out of the back glass and set it into place on the inside, but I wanted to keep
that seal with the back glass as tight as possible, and my green tool worked just fine. The best kind of repair is the one you don’t
have to do. The best way to keep your phone from breaking
in the future is to protect it with a case or a skin.

A naked phone is just asking for trouble. A skin, like the one you see here from dbrand,
goes a long way for adding grip, keeping that phone scratch free, and adding a raised surface
around the camera lens for a little extra protection. I’ll toss a link in the description for
you. And thanks to dbrand for supporting this video. Hopefully it will save people money when they
break their phones in the future. If you want to check out a few other projects
I’m working on, Instagram and Twitter have all my behind the scenes. And let me know if you were successful in
repairing your own phone. Thanks a ton for watching! I’ll see you around..

As found on YouTube

Razer Phone Teardown! – HUGE Heat Pipe – tiny vibrator

The Razer Phone has survived my durability
test and now it's time for the teardown and review from the inside. We had a vote over on my Twitter yesterday
to name our new little mouse friend, and out of the suggestions in my last video came Mousey
McMouse Face, Mr. “Moh'se”, and Jerry (from Tom & Jerry) ended up winning though. Good choice. I like that name. Let's call him Mr. Jerry Moh'se, and I just
hope he survives the teardown. Let's get started. [Intro] Since there are no visible external screws
on the Razer Phone, the only logical explanation is that they are hidden under the plastic
speaker grills. And as with most adhesive, this stuff gets
softer as you heat it up. I'll take a thin pry tool, or in this case,
a razor blade, and pry up that bottom plastic grill exposing a few screws. I'll repeat the process with the top grill
by warming it up and putting my razor into the Razer and razoring it around a little
bit.

The camera lenses come off with that top plastic. I'll try to find replacements for these and
link them in the description. But since this isn't a super mainstream phone,
it might be difficult. I'll pull the SIM card tray out just in case
that's important. And then there are 6 screws at the bottom,
a combination of Phillips and T5 screws. There are another 4 screws up at the top;
one T5 and the rest are Phillips head. Getting the screen out of the frame was a
little bit easier than I anticipated.

It's held in place with friction and a few
small clasps. So with a little leverage at the bottom of
the screen and some gentle persuasion, the whole thing can pop up and out of the phone
body…way easier than the OnePlus 5T. Already we can see some pretty interesting
things inside this Razer Phone, but we need easier access to get a better look. There are a billion different sized screws
in here, so I am going to keep things organized. I'll detach the screen ribbon cable first
by unscrewing the metal bracket connector – it's a Phillips head. And I'll peel back some of the metallic shielding
over those connectors. First thing to unplug is the massive battery,
and then the screen ribbon. And now that the screen's free, let's look
at this massive heat pipe. This might be the biggest heat pipe I've ever
seen in a cellphone. It's also got the thermal paste right over
the top of the copper so the heat dissipation will be more efficient between the copper
and the processor. Under the black tape there's another sheet
of copper thermally adhered to the copper below it.

More copper is always a good thing. The adhesive only sticks one time though,
so I'll just, um, put that off to the side and it's good as new. This is the screen component, the 120 Hertz
IPS beast of a display this phone is known for. If you manage to break yours unfortunately,
I'll try to have some replacements linked in the video description for you. So far it's been a pretty straightforward
replacement. Now let's get that gigantic battery out. I'll unclip the fingerprint scanner cable
from the motherboard. And then on the other side of the phone I'll
remove the two screws holding down the volume ribbon bracket. I'll set that off to the side and then unclip
the volume button connector just like a little Lego. This battery does have the magical pull tabs
thankfully. And Razer was nice enough to give us a big
enough tab to actually grab and pull on. [Stretching rubber sounds] But wait, there's more. [Stretching rubber sounds] Unfortunately there was some premature decapitation,
and now I have to commence the Pry of Shame.

But still, pretty simple to replace the battery
in this thing. A 4000 milliamp hour Razer branded powerhouse
which is over twice the capacity of the iPhone 8. Pretty impressive. Now for the charging port and vibration motor. This is where things get a little more complicated. There are a total of 7 screws holding this
thing down, with a few golden frame attachments to that plastic antenna line. I'll disconnect and peel back that charging
port ribbon from the motherboard and remove the signal wires, and then the whole thing
can come free. The USB-C charging port has a little bit of
rubber around the tip, but remember that this phone has no water resistance, so be careful. Now for that vibration motor. In most smart phones we find an eccentric
rotating mass motor, or circular coin vibrators, but Razer has stuck in a taptic vibrator,
similar to what we've seen on the iPhones, but a fraction of the size.

It's incredibly small. Marquez was complaining about his vibrator
being trash. [Marquez] Sounds broken. But it sounded that way out of the box since
day one. And now we can see why. It's barely even there. I assume Razer is making up for it's small
size by overpowering the itty-bitty guy and getting that blown out rattling sound like
you would with a speaker. Apparently size matters when it comes to vibrators. The bottom loudspeaker is on the other side
of the phone and it's pretty interesting. Once again, no waterproofing, but the speaker
cone is made from rubber, kind of like what we saw in the Apple Airpods. So even if moisture does get into the speaker,
it won't distort or blow easily, and will wear out less with time. It's nice of Razer to put quality speakers
inside of their phone. I'll toss the loudspeaker with it's golden
contact pads back into the frame and make my way up to the top of the motherboard. The dual camera system is hidden under that
metallic tape.

I'll peel that up and unscrew the one screw
holding down the metal bracket over the connectors. It's a weird bracket with a little rubber
doohickey keeping it from popping out on one side. The cameras themselves can unplug like little
Legos, and there are 2 screws holding the whole thing down. One screw is tucked up underneath the camera
connector. This is not the most organized phone I've
ever been inside, but it's still not as bad as the old HTC's. Neither the regular camera lens nor the telephoto
camera have OIS, which is unfortunate.

Optical image stabilization is pretty important
when it comes to cameras and taking video. There is no side-to-side hardware stabilizing
that we've seen on other major high-end flagships. There are 5 more screws holding down the gold
antenna line brackets to the motherboard, and then one more screw hidden next to the
front-facing camera. The whole motherboard can lift up and away
from the phone body after that. The 8 megapixel front facing camera is removable
if you're into that kind of thing. Also, one more cool thing is that the front
earpiece looks like it's the same size as the bottom speaker, so there will be equal
sounds coming from both ends of the phone. It's just oriented in a different direction. The top speaker also has that same durable
long lasting rubber cone that we talked about earlier. And now it's time to see if our little mouse
buddy is still alive. I'll get all those golden antenna line brackets
back into place with those 6 motherboard screws. There's another 2 screws specifically to hold
down the rear cameras. I'll get that silver bracket situated with
it's one screw and funky white little rubber pad thing, and make my way down to the bottom
of the phone.

The charging port goes in with it's gold antenna
line brackets and 6 screws. And the long extension cable can run up along
the frame to the top and plug into the motherboard. I'll tuck that massive battery back into place,
and get this silver bracket with it's two screws back over the volume button ribbon. The fingerprint scanner Lego-like connection
is next, and then I'll toss that metallic tape back on over the cameras and SD card
slot. I do like saving the battery connector for
last to be safe. So we'll get the screen lined up and plugged
in, and then the battery. The metal bracket goes over the top of all
those connectors with it's one screw to hold it down tight. Getting the screen lined up and pressed down
was easy enough. The kink near the power button from my bend
test didn't mess me up too much.

Since I am working with glass though, I was
pretty gentle and careful getting it back into place. Cracking the screen at this point would be
incredibly unfortunate. And it looks like everything still works. This phone is currently available on Amazon
right now, so I'll leave a link for that in the description along with all the parts and
tools I used during this video. Hopefully you never break yours, but accidents
happen. I'll get all the screws back into the frame
and unfortunately, the speaker grills are not going to go back into place nicely.

Once they've been peeled off, the adhesive
is not reusable. I'll probably try some double sided tape at
some point, or just wait till I can find some replacements. Jerry Mouse is glad he survived the teardown
and thanks you all for his new name. Come hang out with us on Twitter. Jerry and I thank you a ton for watching and
we'll see you around..

As found on YouTube